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Climate Change Threatens European Wineries

Extreme heat is hitting Europe's wineries hard. In Santorini, Yiannis Paraskevopoulos sees his Assyrtiko grape, a key component of fine white wines, under threat. Last year's harvest at Gaia Wines was a third of 2022's; this year, it's projected to be one-sixth. Paraskevopoulos fears Assyrtiko could disappear by 2040.

Global wine production dropped 10% in 2023, marking the lowest level in over 60 years. Greece's output fell by more than a third, while Italy and Spain saw declines of over one-fifth. The impacts of climate change are evident: heavy rains, droughts, and early frosts.

Costs are rising, and consumers are paying more. One kilogram of Assyrtiko grapes now costs between 8 to 10 euros, double the 2022 prices. Paraskevopoulos is concerned about losing market share.

Some wineries are adapting: Antinori is planting vines differently, raising trellises, and planting grass. Raventós Codorniu is focusing on water efficiency. Skouras is planting at higher altitudes and seeking better water supplies.

Santorini's traditional "koulouras" may not protect vines from worsening weather. The future is uncertain, and adaptation is crucial.

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